Great Asian Railway Journeys

Following his 1913 Bradshaw’s guidebook, Michael Portillo continues his exploration of the Malaysian peninsula. Beginning in its dynamic and diverse capital, Kuala Lumpur, Michael's railway journey heads to the very southern tip of Malaysia and the historic city of Johor Bahru, the gateway to Singapore. In KL, as it is universally known, Michael tries the ancient art of pewter smithing and learns how the discovery of tin transformed a muddy estuary into Malaysia’s thriving capital - one of the world’s fastest-growing cities. Michael sees for himself how breakneck development is putting pressure on the city’s historic Malay settlement, Kampung Baru. Michael heads south to Melaka, whose history as one of the greatest trading ports in the world has resulted in a surprising mix of cultures and faiths. Michael tastes the spicy cuisine of the Kristang community, who are descendants of Portuguese settlers and local Malays. Continuing to Kluang among some of Malaysia’s most fertile farmland, Michael lends a hand with the pineapple harvest and discovers how the combination of tin cans and tropical fruit played their part in creating a global market in food. Arriving in Johor Bahru, Michael visits the palace of Sultan Abu Bakar, a canny and well-travelled monarch who became friends with Queen Victoria and used what he learned to modernise his realm. Yet, as Michael discovers, he failed in one thing: his attempt to create Malaysia’s first ever railway was defeated by an implacable foe – the termite!